APPLIANCE REPAIR

 Bad Relays. Ovens with two heating elements normally have two relays. A bad relay won’t let the oven function properly or reach the set temperature.

 Electronic Control Board. Whether you have a Kenmore oven, Tappan electric oven, or any other brand, there is a control board in there. It controls the broil, baking elements, and every other oven function. In this case, if you see the stove is working, but the electric oven and clock are not working, you must check this. It’s not easy to do. For visible signs of damage, look for burning or shorts.

 Oven Thermal Fuse. If both of the heating elements are not working, it can be due to blown oven thermal fuse or wiring issues. Only a professional technician should diagnose and fix these problems.

 Defective Oven Sensor. The control board of the oven works with the oven sensor. Its main task is to monitor the oven temperature. When your oven reaches your set temperature, the control board disconnects the voltage to the heating elements. With a defective sensor, your oven may not start at all. You can check it using a multimeter; if you don’t get enough resistance, it is time to replace the sensor. Some ovens have a temperature-sensing bulb to control the temperature instead of it. Thus, if the bulb is loose or burnt out, you may need to re-adjust it or replace it.

 Burnt out Selector Switch. It changes the oven settings from bake to broil and vice versa. If the selector switch is ticking or defective, it may prevent the oven from functioning properly.

 Our electric oven technicians would not recommend you to check and fix those problems unless you are qualified in this regard. Considering the involvement of various meters to check such stuff, it is better to hire a pro. You are welcome to contact us to schedule the most convenient time to resolve any issues with your oven.

 Even though it’s one of the most common problems for all brands, everything in the laundry room stops when your dryer isn’t heating; there are 11 possible causes you can troubleshoot. And a few solutions you may be able to take care of yourself. Whenever you need them, the skilled technicians at FIX Appliances CA are just a call or click away.

 Clean out the lint screen to remove the debris build-up. It can be washed with water and a soft brush. Dry thoroughly before replacing into the housing.

 Be sure the exhaust duct system to the outside is clear of restrictions. Contact a duct cleaning service if you’re unable to clear it yourself.

 Gas dryers use two or more gas valve solenoid coils to open the gas valve ports. Once open, gas flows to the burner assembly, lighting the igniter to produce heat.

 When the dryer calls for heat, the igniter will heat up and glow. Once it reaches the maximum temperature, the gas valve will open, the gas will ignite, and the dryer will heat up.

 The igniter is located inside the machine next to the gas burner tube. It is fragile and should be replaced by a certified gas technician only.

 Electric current flows through a coil of heating wire called the heating element. This coil is enclosed in a metal chamber, heats up the air being pulled through the chamber and then blows it into the drum.

 Usually, the heating element is located behind the lower front panel of the right side of an electric dryer. It should be tested for continuity. It’s possible only to replace the coil but a certified technician should do it.

 The flame sensor or radiant sensor detects heat from the igniter or burner flame. It is responsible for opening the gas valve and keeping it open while it is burning. If, for any reason, flame dies flame sensor will shut the gas valve.

 Symptoms of a defective sensor include an igniter that won’t glow or a gas valve that won’t open. If the igniter glows continuously but doesn’t open the gas valve, the electrical contacts inside may be damaged.

 Electric dryers may experience no heat if the machine has insufficient power. Two legs of 120 volts AC, or a total of 240 volts, are needed for the dryer to run properly. Occasionally, this situation will allow the dryer to run but not heat due to only one fuse or breaker being tripped.

 Check your circuit box for the number of volts running to the dryer. If you have an incoming power problem, contact a professional electrician to run lines equal to 240 volts.

 The high-limit thermostat is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating. It is mounted on the heating chamber and will detect overheating from a restricted exhaust vent and shut down the heat. In rare cases, a malfunctioning high-limit thermostat will shut off the main burner even if it’s not overheating.

LG Appliance Repair

 Because this component is rarely defective, check other more common problems first. A test of the thermostat by a qualified technician will determine if the high-limit thermostat needs to be replaced.

 A cycling thermostat controls the temperature inside the dryer drum. It “cycles” the heat on and off to produce the proper amount of heat to dry the clothes. The cycling thermostat can malfunction after several uses and cause the dryer to stop heating.

 The cycling thermostat is located inside the dryer on the blower housing. A skilled technician should test for continuity and replace it if found to be defective.

 The main control board operates all the technical software components of the dryer. It’s difficult to test, but signs of burning or a short may indicate a major malfunction that led to a no heat situation.

 A small motor connected to gears and cams turns electric contacts on and off inside the timer. It’s located in the control console of the dryer and also controls the dryer motor and heat circuit. The timer’s electrical contacts can malfunction and stop producing heat.

 A timer malfunction is rare, so your repair technician will have to check more commonly defective parts in addition to the timer. If all other components are working properly, the timer must be replaced.

 You’ve come to the right place if you ever tried to find possible causes and actions to the Error Code F21 and other error codes on your Maytag washer.

 You’ve come to the right place if you ever tried to find possible causes and actions to the Error Code F21 and other error codes on your Maytag washer.

 Today’s high-efficiency, front-load washers provide the benefits of increased capacity, reduced water usage, and a faster spin cycle to extract more water for reduced drying time. While you may be confused by the error codes noted on your machine’s front display, this troubleshooting guide can help you diagnose and possibly correct some problems without ever calling a repair professional.

 While the details listed below represent error codes for Maytag front-load washers, the majority will be similar for Whirlpool and Kenmore machines. Many major appliance manufacturers have merged or bought out smaller companies, so only a handful remain. Check here to find out who manufactures the appliance brand you currently own.

 Use this Quick-Reference Guide to identify the problem and solution for common error codes that appear on the washer console. There is a simple solution in a few cases that you can rectify yourself. If the DIY method doesn’t solve your problem, the detail listed in each section will help your service technician Maytag washing machine repair your washer quickly to save time and money. In addition, keeping up with regular maintenance will help your machine run efficiently longer and experience fewer breakdowns.

 If the Code Persists, contact a service professional. Tell your technician the error code # and to check the pump drive, main relays and CCU board.

 Ensure the washer’s hot and cold water lines are free from kinks. You can also unscrew the faucet lines to ensure filter screens are not plugged.

 Press PAUSE/CANCEL two times to clear the display and drain the water in the machine. The door will now unlock so that you can remove wet clothing.

 Check water hoses for leaks by running your hand along the hose length. If they are wet, you may need to replace the hoses or connections.

 If there are no visible hose problems, contact a service technician. This error code may indicate a problem with the pressure switch, drain pump, or Central Control Unit.

 If the Code Persists, run unplug the washer, disconnect the power, and contact a Maytag appliance repair service professional to replace the door switch/lock unit or CCU board.